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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee well-known award-winning names. Yet, tucked high among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu found in a far-flung area of northern London.

An Shocking Accolade

The little Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. This recognition has made the owners completely astonished.

“I’m utterly surprised,” remarks a owner’s son, pointing to his family’s dedication that led to their humble restaurant earning such a high position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its original feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking show, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the fare, and this restaurant more than excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a tender quality.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, nuttier and not overly sweet profile.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

The Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at fancy restaurants. “I am truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate outside its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this culinary achievement.